I've had a few experiences from fish-eyes. We traced problems we were having over that last few months to one guy and his detergent/deodorant/etc.
#PAINT FISHEYE FULL#
One idea is to put your finish guys in full tyvek, or equivalent suits, and see if that helps. This is basic stuff, but sometimes it is just a basic problem that gets over-looked. Also, check and change the air line filters. Blow down your compressor and drain any water that might be in the tank. If the heaters are running in the shop, make sure they are tuned up and not blowing any unburned fuel into the air.Īs contributor J said, check your air lines for water/oil. Ask and see if anyone has changed the way they clean the equipment. Also, take a walk around the manufacturing end and look to see if they are using wd40 or silicone sprays on the tablesaws, or waxes on the shapers. I would check and make sure that your airlines aren't blowing oily water first. These are just a few possibilities, and the potential culprit list is gigantic. Here are a few things you could try using - personal deodorants, lotions, waxy tack rag residues, epoxy blush. I am wondering if anyone has a list of possibilities or a direction as to where to begin looking? Any help would be appreciated.
I've cleaned and scrubbed every inch of my department (shown in the picture below), and it hasn't improved much. You may also check the sandpaper, yes some has silicone in it.I'm having an issue with craters/fisheyes in my finish and paints. Rags are suspect, although as someone already suggested contamination in the lines and maybe temp could be the culprit. I've worked around body shops for many years and it's tough to determine the cause of contamination without being there. If you really want to go nuts, give that coat a week and wetsand it again with some really fine paper and then polish it with a buffer to a mirror finish. It's likely not a lost cause, give it a few days to harden and wetsand the surface to remove all the fish eyes.
Some waxes can be a pain to get rid of, so a couple of good cleanings may be needed. That is the one time you really want to use fresh wipe cloths. I've never cleared a playfield, but I've done quite a few vehicle paint jobs so I'm thinking contaminants left on the playfield before you applied the clear. I might have picked up one that was used to wax a play field.ĭoes anyone else have any suggestions for avoiding fisheye in the future?įor now, it looks like I will have to start sanding it back down in a day or two. I use recycled rags that have been washed. My best working theory right now, is that the rags are used to clean the playfield were contaminated. So what caused the contamination? I don't think it was the compressor, the air filters are almost new. I cleaned my playfield with naphtha (camping fuel here in California) and set my gun up for a heavy coat. It was a nice 65 degrees in the shop when I started painting. I mixed my paint like I have in the past, using Omni mc730 clear with mh738 hardener and mr295 reducer. The last time I tried to paint in my shop, I think I got more paint in my shop than on my playfield. I spent my spare time over the last few days setting up my spray booth. At long last today I decided it was time to finish the clearcoat on my SF2 playfield.
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